Centrophasma hadrillum spinocephalum "Bako"

Centrophasma hadrillum spinocephalum "Bako"
(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• this culture has been distributed as Centrophasma hadrillum "Bako" at first
• provenience: Bako NP  (Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia)
• F1 CB culture by JungChun Chiang (Taiwan)
• F1 CB culture in Europe by Bruno Kneubuehler (2015)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience

Females

• very sturdy and very spiny
• body length 9 cm
• females are very variably colored, in different shades of brown and green
• short hindwings

Males

• stury and spiny
• body length 8 cm
• fully developed wings
   

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs brown with green legs
• about 20 mm
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 7 x 2.5 mm
• brown

Food Plants

• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  well accepted by nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

• active mainly during the night
• they feign death when touched
• eggs are stuck into a suitable substrate
• dry sand is accepted as an egg-laying substrate
• about 5 - 7 eggs per female and week
• incubation (HH-method on slightly damp vermiculite) about 4 - 5 months at 20 - 23 °C
• males will be adult after 4 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 5 months
• a humidity of about 75 - 80 % seems to be good enough for this species
• especially adults should be kept more humid
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
• easy to breed

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a cage too big than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)

Useful informations

➤detailed infos on how to breed phasmids
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/199

➤
infos on newly cultured phasmid species
https://www.facebook.com/phasmatodea

➤
Online Culture List
www.ulft-ict.nl/phasma/kweeklijst/

➤
PSG list
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/psg

➤
how to recognize the difference between male / female nymphs
www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/tips-and-tricks

➤
eggs for breeding
http://www.phasmatodea.com/web/guest/222