Cryptophyllium chrisangi "Singapore"

(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• this culture is also know as Phyllium sp. "Singapore"
• provenience: Singapore
• F2 CB culture by Thierry Heitzmann (Philippines)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders are asked to avoid mixing this culture with similar populations from a different provenience

Females

• body length 8 - 9 cm
• green with dark brown dots and patches
• rather long hind-wings, compared to other Phyllium (Phyllium) species

Males

• body length 7 cm
• rather big
• green
   

Nymphs

• freshly hatched nymphs are dark brown with light greenish dots on the abdomen
• 14 mm
• on how to distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 6 x 4 mm
• brown
• suface looks furry

Food Plants

• not all freshly hatched nymphs take to bramble (Rubus spp.) easily
• if freshly hatched nymphs refuse to feed on bramble at first, then offer them strawberry leaves
• once they feed well on strawberry leaves for about two weeks, you can change them to bramble
• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  moderately well accepted by freshly hatched nymphs, well accepted by older nymphs and adults
• natural food plant might be Sea Hibiscus (Talipariti tiliaceum)     (info by Dmitry Telnov, Latvia)
• Mango (Mangifera indica) and oak (Quercus rubra) is also accepted     (info by Dmitry Telnov, Latvia)

Breeding, Behaviour

• active mainly during the night, although one can also regularely see them feeding during the day
• both males and females quickly drop to the ground when being touched, usually they freeze up again after a few steps
• eggs just drop to the ground
• about 8 - 10 eggs per female and week
• incubation (damp vermiculite) about 3 - 4 months at 20 - 23 °C
• males will be adult after 5 - 6 months (at 20 - 24°C), females after 6 - 7 months
• as eggs of other Phyllium species, these eggs are also quite prone to get mouldy, and it is difficult to avoid this. Yet a thin mould layer does not affect the hatching ratio negatively
• nymphs hatch at day time, in the early morning hours
• a humidity of about 60 - 70 % seems to be good enough for the nymphs, keep them in an airy cage
• the Free-Standing-Setup is very much recommened for small nymphs
• keep the adults (especially the males) in arather humid cage (about 80% RH)
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but allow the water to dry up before spraying again
• easy to breed

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults, mainly to protect them during the crucial moulting phases
• choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a cage too big than too small
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results, as it seems to increase activity and feeding
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep day time temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is natural, and thus advantageous
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The water should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, opening up cages in the morning [often a moulting phase] ect.)