Paragongylopus cf. sinensis "Hoang Lien"

(by Bruno Kneubuehler)

General Informations

• provenience: Hong Lien NP (Vietnam)
• taxonomic evaluation by Joachim Bresseel (Belgium)
• F1 CB culture by Bruno Kneubuehler (2013 / 2014)
• further taxonomical informations ➤ phasmida.speciesfile.org
• this is a pure culture, and serious breeders will avoid mixing it with cultures of a different provenience

Females

• small species
• body length 4.5 cm
• reddish-brown, brown or almost black specimens
• very short antennae, with few segments only
• coxae and ventral thorax reddish
• many small lobes on the legs
• a warty growth at the dorsal hind ridge of the 5th abdominal segment
• very short subgenital plate
• whole body is hairy

Males

• body length 3.5 cm
• dark brown
• legs often darker colored
• coxae and ventral thorax reddish
• very short, oddly shapedantennae
• two short spines on the head
• few, small lobes on the leg

Nymphs

• small, about 10 mm
• green
• legs dark ringed
• on how to easily distinguish between male and female nymphs

Eggs

• 6 x 1 mm
• light and dark brown mottled
• matt

Food Plants

• strawberry leaves (Fragaria spp.) and / or cinquefoils (Potentilla spp.)
  verywell accepted by freshly hatched nymphs
• bramble (Rubus spp.)
  well accepted by older nymphs and adults
• cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus)
  well accepted by older nymphs and adults. Fresh leaves are better accepted than old leaves
• dead nettles (Lamium spp.)
  well accepted by older nymphs and adults

Breeding, Behaviour

• active mainly during the night
• a slow and slow-growing species, which is eating just a little bit
• they feign death when touched
• eggs are glued to different substrates (including their food plant) usually above ground
• about 2 - 3 eggs per female and week
• incubation (on slightly damp vermiculite) about 2 - 3 months at 20 - 23 °C
• it is easy to extend the incubation time with the LTD-Method, as their food plants are not easily available during european winter time
• nymphs hatch during the night
• a higher humidity is essential for this species, about 70 - 80 % (or higher) seems to be good enough
• one can spray them regularly with chlorine-free water, but the water should dry up again
• easy to breed in my experience

Basics of phasmids breeding

• keep only one species per cage, overpopulation is one of the main reasons for breeding failures
• keep nymphs seperate from the adults
• choose the cage big enough, when in doubt it is (usually) better to choose a bigger cage than a too small one
• a ventilator often supports good breeding results
• provide enough light, but avoid direct sunlight (overheating)
• try to keep temperatures below 25°C
• a nocturnal fall of temperature is healty for the phasmids
• do not spray too much, phasmids are no fish ! The spray should dry up before you spray again
• minimize disturbances (loud music, commotions, light at or during the night, ect.) minimal